Based on a 10 month trip to various states in 1996/1997, a 2 week trip to New York City in 1999, a 6 week stay in San Francisco in 2001, a 2 week stay in San Francisco in 2003, a 10 day trip to Wisconsin in 2004 and 10 day stays in San Francisco in 2005 and 2007.
San Francisco is my favourite city in the world and my adopted home town. I have promised myself to visit the city twice a year from now on and plan on living there some time (just waiting to win the Greencard Lottery...).
I should also say that I'm clearly a west coast person. My favourite state is probably California, because of the varieties of landscapes it has to offer and because I've spent more time there than in any other state. Oregon and Washington are also beautiful outdoor and wilderness states. However, my favourite part of the U.S. really is the South West with its amazing desert and canyon landscapes. I'm currently planning on an extensive road trip to the South West that will allow me to go hiking and camping in many of the national parks in Southern California, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico.
I first came to the U.S. right after I graduated from high school and ended up staying for almost a year. It was the national parks and Native American culture that initially attracted me to the U.S.. I was expecting to dislike "mainstream" American culture, but much to my surprise, I found that I really enjoyed it. People were incredibly friendly, outgoing and hospitable. All in all, it was probably the happiest year of my life, full of amazing experiences. Not surprisingly, I still consider the U.S. one of my homes.
If you are into national parks, a great way to experience them is volunteering for the National Park service (see the IVIP page for rules for international volunteers). I volunteered in three different national parks and really enjoyed all of them. My impression was that the volunteer program is highly professional and very well organised and managed. They really try to make this a mutually beneficial experience by providing proper training and showing appreciation for your work. They even have something like a charta of rights for volunteers (which I was given in writing at one place). National Park Service volunteers receive no pay, but many parks provide you with free housing. Alternatively, consider applying for an SCA intern position with the Park Service through the Student Conservation Association which provides successful applicants with a stipend for travel and living expenses. Don't be mislead by the organisation's name, anybody can apply to the SCA, not just students, and there is no age limit. For general information on the national park system in the U.S., see the U.S. National Park Service website.
Passed through the southern part of Alabama and was stuck at the Greyhound bus station in Mobile for awhile. Very unexciting, just remember it because I started writing a small book (unpublished, way too private :-)) about my 10 month trip in the U.S. at this bus station...
An absolutely gorgeous state, one of my favourites. Has all the red sandstone, deserts and canyons that I love so much and that originally got me interested in visiting the U.S.. Unfortunately, I didn't have a car last time I was there and was only passing through the state on my way to my next job in Texas. So I was limited to a brief stay in Phoenix and a couple of daytrips from there. I liked Phoenix, the heat, all the glass buildings reflecting the blue sky, the palm trees and the desert around it. There was a nice desert outdoor museum nearby, basically a stretch of typical desert landscape with many signs explaining all the natural history which I thought was a good introduction to the area. The Heard Museum is a great museum on Native American tribes in the Southwest. Biology students interested in field biology may consider checking out the Southwestern Research Station near the border to New Mexico which was recommended to me by a member of staff at a state park.
It really is the "Golden State". Huge and beautiful, and extremely diverse.
The coast of Northern California is famous for its redwood forests, ranging from Redwood National Park near the Oregon border to Muir Woods National Monument, a smaller stretch of redwoods just north of San Francisco. Redwoods National Park is amazing, and the Redwoods National Park Hostel near Klamath is a convenient basecamp for exploring the park. The coastal scenery very beautiful, with forest all the way up to the beach which is covered with large logs and tree trunks that have washed ashore. The various state parks to the south have equally amazing redwood forest and coastline. I thought the fall was a great time to visit because of the colors. While most redwood trees don't change color, there is one species that changes its leaf color to red, with maple trees adding some yellow...all this combined with the deep green of the redwood forest and blue sky for many weeks. A great place to stay along the coast is the Eel River Redwoods Hostel in Leggett, with cabins in the woods, hammocks, a hot tub and a very small and private pub that feels more like a living room.
The other main natural attraction in Northern California are landscapes of volcanic origin. Lava Beds National Monument near the Oregon Border is absolutely amazing (to quote one of my ranger friends: "this place is magic, it makes you think, dream and learn"). There is an underground network of hundreds of lava tube caves. Those that have been to Hawaii will probably be familiar with the different lava classifications (a-a versus pa-hoi-hoi). The caves almost have a spiritual feel to them, and there is a lot of variety, ranging from Hopkins Chocolate Cave to Fern Cave (with Indian drawings) and Merrill Ice Cave. I immensely enjoyed the two months that I worked as a volunteer at Lava Beds. Work and free time became indistinguishable as I absolutely loved hiking the trails and walking through the caves, looking for endangered bats, archeological sites and doing many other fun things. Above the ground, the landscape is also very beautiful, with lookout points at the the top of shield volaconoes such as Schonchin Butte, lava flows with bizarre formations and many interesting plants (sage brush, rabbit brush and many more). The park is in the middle of nowhere and there is wilderness all around it, as far as the eye can see (or the brain can think, for that matter). You can even see Mount Shasta in Oregon on clear days. Going uphill from Lava Beds brings you to Medicine Lake which is surrounded by beautiful forest. In summary, Lava Beds is one of those places that will always be close to my heart.
There are many great wilderness areas that are within a couple of hours drive from San Francisco. The most famous is Yosemite National Park west of San Francisco. Make sure you do the hike up Half Dome (where you can hang out with the marmots), and keep your eyes open for bears. The Lake Tahoe area northwest of San Francisco is also beautiful.
Just a few comments on my favourite city in the world (this section will keep growing with my biyearly visits to the city).
When to go
Beware: San Francisco is not exactly known for its good weather. Even in the height of summer when the rest of California is suffering from a heat wave, San Francisco can be surprisingly cold, and, most of all, foggy. The city also has an amazing microclimate, with some districts (e.g. the Mission) being much sunnier than others (e.g. Seacliff). The best time to visit is in the fall (particularly in October) when you are likely to get much more sun and far higher temperatures than in August (flights will also be much cheaper in October and there will be fewer tourists). If you get frustrated with the weather in San Francisco, just head to Berkeley where the weather is likely to be much better.
Accomodation
The
Green Tortoise Hostel is probably your best bet for short stays: nice and safe location in North Beach, free breakfast, free dinner three times a week and a free private sauna with a view of Broadway. (By the way, you may also want to check out the
Green Tortoise adventure bus trips.) For longer stays, have a look at the
Globetrotter's Inn which probably has the cheapest weekly rates in San Francisco (and no maximum stay). However, its location at the border of the Tenderloin isn't all that great, ok towards Powell Station, but definitely not towards the notorious Tenderloin district. If you are looking for a room in a shared flat (or for used furniture, or for anything else you could possibly think of), consult
Craig's list.
Public transport
Note that one ticket is valid for several hours and includes two transfers (make sure you get a free transfer ticket each time). If you spend more time in the city, get a weekly (or monthly) pass. Weekly passes are available at the booth next to the Powell cable car station (note that there are two different kinds of weekly passes, with and without cable car use). You should also get the San Francisco transit map and street map (available at some larger MUNI stations or the Tourist Office at Powell Station).
Airport Shuttle
Things to do and see
One of the many great things about San Francisco is the diversity of its neighborhoods. Just go explore them all (except for the Tenderloin which you should stay away from). Pacific Heights, North Beach, Chinatown (Stockton and side streets), Haight Ashbury, the Castro, Noe Valley and parts of the Mission district are particularly nice. For a great view, walk up Telegraph Hill in North Beach. Other great viewpoints are the intersection of Broadway and Fillmore, nearby Alta Plaza Park and of course Twin Peaks. Walk along the Bay from Crissy Field to the Golden Gate Bridge. Cross the Bridge, either by foot or by bike. And, most of all, go to Baker Beach, one of my favourite spots in San Francisco (only recommended on a clear day as this is a particularly foggy part of the city). If the weather is really nice, the best thing you can do is walk the coastal trail from China Beach (the trailhead is at the end of Seacliff Avenue) to the Cliff House. You will be rewarded by absolutely breathtaking views of the Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. The whole area is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. I spent a few weeks volunteering in this area (for example, we built the fence that controls erosion of the sand dunes at Baker Beach) as a participant of an international workcamp jointly organized by the CIEE and the National Park Service. Alcatraz Island is also part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and well worth a visit (I spent two nights in the Birdman's cells when we had some BBQ outings for National Park Service staff on Alcatraz). Angel Island is also a very nice daytrip. You should also visit the Marin Headlands on the other side of the bridge. Further north is the very beautiful Point Reyes National Seashore. Consider spending the night at the very nice and peaceful
Point Reyes Hostel (I was very happy to see a sign at reception saying "If you snore, identify yourself"...there is a special room for people who snore). Another nice daytrip from San Francisco is Berkeley where you can take in the spirit of one of the world's most alternative universities.
Entertainment
In 2001, Noc Noc (on Haight Street, between Fillmore & Steiner) was a great bar and the Cat Club (on Folsom, at 8th Street) a great club. Another fun thing to do is watch the Hitchcock movie "Vertigo" (set in San Francisco) at the historical Castro movie theatre. Talking about movies, you may also want to watch one of the Alcatraz movies (like "The Rock") before visiting Alcatraz Island.
Vesuvio (North Beach bar)
Shopping
Sports Basement
REI
Miscelleneous
DMV San Francisco Office
Southern California is what most people have in mind when they think of California. The warm climate, the eternal sunshine, the beaches, surfing culture, palm trees and the smell of eucalyptus all make the coast of Southern California very enjoyable. San Diego is a nice city (also check out nearby La Jolla which is very pretty). I kind of skipped downtown L.A., but did spend a bit of time at Venice Beach which I liked a lot. I was there in the middle of the winter, but it was really nice and warm. I walked along the beach, everything was really clean, people were relaxed and friendly, the houses very nice and there was a very strong sense of community in the neighborhood (some people didn't even lock their doors)...not exactly what comes to your mind when you think of L.A.. Since L.A. is often a convenient stopover on long transcontinental flights, consider spending a night and a day at Venice Beach. The Venice Beach Hostel offers free pickups and dropoffs to LAX international airport and very reasonably priced accomodation in a small homey hostel. The deserts of Southern California are also very beautiful, with giant cacti and canyons full of palm trees. Joshua Tree National Monument is absolutely amazing. Another really beautiful area are the Indian Canyons near Palm Springs where you can see those amazing palm tree canyons. There are also a number of Indian reservations in the area. I was privileged to spend some time as a volunteer with the Torres Martinez Desert Cahuilla Indians which was an unforgettable experience (definitely not an official volunteer program...). I was also lucky to attend a conference by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) with representatives from Native American tribes all over the country.
Only passed through the state on the Greyhound from NYC to Boston.
Drove through Delaware on our road trip along the east coast, on the way to Assateague Island in Maryland.
Unfortunately, I only had time to explore Florida's east coast for a little bit. Clearwater is really nice and there is a beautiful nearby nature reserve with many palm trees. I also went kayaking in the mangrove estuaries there and was joined by a group of dolphins (my best dolphin experience so far, since they came join me rather than being chased after by a group of yelling, camara-clicking tourists on one of these dolphin safari boats). The Clearwater Beach Hostel offers good affordable accomodation (and some kayaks you can borrow). The rest of Clearwater is quite upscale. If you wonder where the money for some of the beautiful houses comes from: I read that Clearwater is also a Scientology stronghold (so beware, don't get brainwashed...).
Only passed through Georgia on the way from Florida to Tennessee.
Chicago is a really great city. The skyscrapers are superb and also really interesting architecturally, because you can see how the style changed with time. Definitely worth taking the elevator to the Sears Tower skydeck to take in the view. Chicago has many nice neighborhoods, for example Lincoln Park with its beautiful houses and gardens that really give it a park-like feel (plus there are many nice restaurants there).
New Orleans is a fantastic city. Definitely one of the great cities in the U.S.. It clearly has its own unique character as reflected in the food (seafood jambolaia, poboys and many other great dishes), the architecture (cast-iron balconies), the culture and the language (Creolan, an interesting variety of French...). And of course the music: there are some great jazz clubs and even just listening to the Creolan street musicians is great (they use self-built instruments including buckets and washboards). New Orleans is also known for its seedy nightlife (at least for the standards of prudish Americans...I thought the "topless bottomless" signs were just hilarious). Make sure you drink plenty of hurricane, the notorious New Orleans cocktail. The French Quarter is the main tourist area. Take a break at Cafe Le Monde, have some beignets and relax. Another really beautiful neighborhood is the Garden District (take one of the famous New Orleans street cars to get there) with a large park where you can admire those beautiful old trees covered with Spanish moss. You could also consider exploring the swamps around New Orleans.
Assateague Island National Seashore is very pretty and well worth a visit. Nice beaches, horseshoe crabs and the famous wild ponies (which "kick and bite" according to the warning signs). However, our favourite sign was the one next to a little lake in the middle of the wilderness saying "Nudity prohibited"...funny what Americans are concerned with :-).
Boston is a very nice city (though a bit too "European" for my taste), with cobblestone lanes and red brick buildings.
We drove along the Michigan shore of Lake Superior and thought it was very pretty.
We drove along a small part of the Minnesota shore of Lake Superior and really liked it.
Jackson, the capital of Mississippi, wasn't particularly exciting (although an interesting experience, very sleepy and untouristy...there is a museum on African American culture, in case you have a couple of hours to kill). By contrast, you should definitely visit Tupelo, a really pretty small town with many beautiful historical buildings. Tupelo is also the headquarters of the Natchez Trace National Parkway which goes all the way from Lousiana through Mississippi to Memphis, Tennessee and is a great drive...nice scenery (unspoilt by highway billboards), relaxed driving and lots to learn about nature, history and culture on the way.
Another state that we drove through on the way to NYC.
I passed through New Mexico on the Greyhound from Arizona to Texas. New Mexico is one of the states that I really want to explore in depth on my planned trip to the South West.
New York City is obviously a must. An incredible city and an amazing place to visit even though I personally wouldn't want to live there. Most tourists limit themselves to Manhattan, but it is also very interesting to visit some of the other neighborhoods, for example Queens. Take in the view from the Empire State Building (particularly pretty at night). And make sure you visit Ellis Island. Climbing up the statue of Liberty is always fun (note that some of the small windows in the statue actually open, allowing you to take some great close-up shots of the face or the arm of the statue). Ellis Island also has a very interesting museum on the early immigrants. Other great museums in NYC are the MoMA and the Guggenheim Museum. A great escape from the city is Fire Island National Seashore, just a train ride away.
The North Carolina section of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is obviously worth a visit. The Blue Ridge Parkway from the Great Smoky Mountains in North Carolina to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia is a very scenic drive. The Appalachian Trail, a long distance hiking trail, also crosses Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail actually starts in Georgia and ends in Maine, passing twelve additional states on the way (well, given the density of states on the east coast...). You should definitely hike a section of the trail. It is one of those places where you can meet many interesting people. For example, we met a lady who introduced herself as "whispering pine"...For more funny stories from the Appalachian trail, read "A walk in the woods" by Bill Bryson.
Oregon is a really beautiful state. Just driving along the coast is great, as there are endless stretches of beautiful sand dunes (for example in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area). Ashland is a cute little town with a very British feel to it (it is home to the Oregon Shakespeare festival). Don't miss Crater Lake National Park which is absolutely amazing.
Another state that I passed through on my Greyhound trip from NYC to Boston.
We drove through South Carolina on our road trip along the east coast.
Part of the beautiful Great Smoky Mountains National Park is in Tennessee. We also found Tennesse very entertaining from a cultural perspective.
San Antonio is a nice city. When I was there, they had a country music festival along the river, adding to the Texan flavor of it. You can also visit the missions near San Antonio. Austin is not too far away from San Antonio and supposed to be another nice Texan city. I also enjoyed my visit to the NASA space center in Houston (make sure you watch the movie "Apollo 13" before your visit). People generally don't associate Texas with forest until they have been to the Big Thicket National Preserve in the East Texas Piney Woods near Beaumont. If you encounter a red-cockaded woodpecker while walking around the preserve, please say hi from me (I spent many weeks chasing those guys as a volunteer...).
Washington D.C. is of course a must. Visit the many famous museums, walk by the White House and take a tour of the Supreme Court and of the Capitol. In addition to visiting the Capitol building, consider attending one of the many committee meetings that are open to the public. Adding to the fun, there is an underground train that will takes you (and the MPs) to the various committee rooms. If you got your fill of history and politics, head for Georgetown, a great D.C. neighborhood with many bars and restaurants catering to a large student population. Make sure you also explore the Virginia outdoors: Shenandoah National Park is not too far away from D.C.. The Appalachian trail, a long distance trail from Georgia to Maine, crosses the park. The Skyline Drive, the most famous section of the Blue Ridge Parkway (connecting Shenondoah National Park with the Great Smoky Mountains of North Carolina) also runs through the park.
Seattle clearly is one of the cool cities in the U.S.. People there are very outdoorsy, love to drink coffee (I guess the constant drizzle in the city makes you long for a hot drink) and there is a large community of people living in houseboats. The Burke Museum is an awesome museum on Native American tribes in the Northwest (the beautifully carved wooden totem poles are particularly amazing). Olympic National Park, just a short drive from Seattle, is absolutely beautiful.
We briefly passed West Virginia on our road trip along the east coast
The northern woods of Wisconsin are really beautiful, with many small lakes. We also greatly enjoyed Apostle Island National Lakeshore in Lake Superior. Madison is supposed to be the nicest city in Wisconsin, with a large student population and an open minded spirit.